Does White Gold Tarnish?
by Werneri Grundström
·3 minutes
White gold is a popular choice for jewelry, prized for its elegant appearance and durability. However, many people wonder if it tarnishes like other metals. To answer this question comprehensively, we need to understand the nature of white gold and how it behaves over time.
Composition of White Gold
White gold is not a naturally occurring metal but rather an alloy created to provide a white metal alternative to platinum. Its composition typically includes:
- Pure gold (usually 14K or 18K)
- White metals such as nickel, palladium, silver, or zinc
- A rhodium plating on the surface
The exact mixture can vary depending on the manufacturer and the desired properties of the final product. For instance, nickel was once commonly used but has fallen out of favor due to allergic reactions in some people. Modern white gold often uses palladium or a combination of other white metals to achieve the desired color and properties.
The gold content is measured in karats, with 18K white gold containing 75% pure gold and 14K containing 58.3%. The remaining percentage consists of the alloying metals, which contribute to the overall durability and color of the piece.
Why White Gold Changes Color
While white gold doesn't tarnish in the traditional sense, it does undergo a noticeable change in appearance over time:
- Rhodium plating wear: The bright white color of new white gold jewelry comes from a thin layer of rhodium plating. Rhodium is a member of the platinum family and is known for its bright white color and resistance to tarnish. However, this plating is typically only a few microns thick and wears away with regular use.
- Exposure of the underlying alloy: As the rhodium plating wears off, it reveals the actual color of the white gold alloy underneath. This alloy is typically a pale yellow or grayish color, depending on the specific metals used in its composition.
- Gradual color shift: The change in color is usually gradual and may not be noticeable on a day-to-day basis. However, over months or years, the jewelry may take on a warmer, more golden hue.
- Factors affecting wear: The rate at which the rhodium plating wears depends on several factors, including frequency of wear, exposure to chemicals (like chlorine in swimming pools or household cleaning products), and even the wearer's body chemistry.
It's important to note that this color change is often mistaken for tarnishing, but it's actually a normal and expected process for white gold jewelry.
Maintaining White Gold's Appearance
To keep white gold jewelry looking its best, consider the following maintenance tips:
- Regular cleaning: Clean your white gold jewelry regularly using mild soap and warm water. Use a soft brush to gently scrub away any dirt or oils that can accumulate in crevices.
- Avoid harsh chemicals: Remove white gold jewelry before swimming in chlorinated pools or using household cleaning products. Chemicals can accelerate the wear of the rhodium plating and potentially damage the gold alloy itself.
- Proper storage: Store white gold pieces separately from other jewelry to prevent scratching. Consider using soft cloth pouches or lined jewelry boxes.
- Professional cleaning: Have your white gold jewelry professionally cleaned and inspected annually. Jewelers can identify any issues early and advise on whether re-plating is necessary.
- Re-plating: When the original rhodium plating has worn significantly, consider having your jewelry re-plated. This process involves cleaning the piece thoroughly and applying a new layer of rhodium. Most jewelers recommend re-plating every 12-18 months for frequently worn pieces, though this can vary based on individual wear patterns.
- Gentle wear: While white gold is durable, it can still be scratched or damaged. Remove jewelry when engaging in activities that might subject it to impacts or abrasions.
The Bottom line
White gold doesn't tarnish but its rhodium plating wears off over time, revealing the underlying gold alloy. Regular maintenance and re-plating can keep white gold jewelry looking bright and new for years.
